Chris & Shirley's 2022 Darwin Trip: Chapter 3

Day 10 - Sunday 5 June 2022 - Coober Pedy to Ghan (Erldunda)

Thanks to the forecast 40 km westerly we were on the road by 7:40 am - thanks to Shirley for her speedy start to the day.

We made good time and missed the gale westerly (or was south of us). The country was uninspiring and devoid of any form of animal life - and not many birds.

Occasionally there were "jump ups" that appeared.

David & Wendy were on the same road and we passed each other a couple of times, as we stopped at different places for a break.

At one of our stops I took a photo of the Kite below, who seemed to be looking for lunch.

As we neared the NT border the wind shifted into a tail wind and spurred us on. We stopped at Kulgera Roadhouse for a diesel top-up and were unimpressed with the $2.69 per litre.

We ended up doing around 480 km for the day - a lot longer than planned. We camped at the Erldunda Roadhouse for the night - around 200 metres from Wendy and David.

The four of us visited the Tavern to whet our whistles. The following locals posed for me as we walked back to the caravan.

At dusk we headed to a sunset-viewing platform to get a sunset photo. Although the sunset photo was not worthy of the blog I took a photo of the campground. The arrow shows the Kelly rig.

Shirley conjured up some pea n ham soup for dinner.

Day 11 - Monday 6 June 2022 - Ghan (Erldunda) to Curtin Springs Station

The cold night - made worse by little or no overnight heating - turned into a slow start, with a departure around 9:30. Very late for us. Leisurely breakfast and late shower.

We topped up again on diesel (this time at $2.75 per litre) and headed west.

Around 90 minutes later Mt Connor came into view. It is virtually as impressive as Uluru (Ayers Rock), although not as well known or assessible.

Soon after we arrived at Curtin Springs Station, checked in to our free camp site, booked a paper making tour, and took a photo of a few locals.

There is apparently a mouse plague in this region. We have seen two mice in two days.

Only 150 km for the day.

The reason we stopped at Curtin Springs (named after a former Aussie Prime Minister) was because Shirley wanted to do the “paper making” tour. So we did - at 4pm.

The first we learned was that the family initiative came about from an NT proposal that all tourism businesses consider a “One More Hour” strategy. If all tourism businesses can keep tourists there “one more hour”, they will spend more money and maybe ‘stay more days’ on their trip. 'Paper Making' is not a direct ‘money making’ venture – it is aimed at making people stop (e.g. us) or making them stay a bit longer.

The paper is made from most local grasses – which just about never die – they just go to sleep until the next rain.

Emma, the grand-daughter of the owners of the station (who have been here since 1956) conducted the tour – just for Shirley and me.

It was fascinating how they cut the grass, then ‘cook’ the grass in a strong alkaline solution, then run it through a crusher, then wash it, then form it into an A3, A4 or A5 shape, then dry it.

During the process they can change the texture by adding hair from a cow’s tail, grass seeds, small flowers or cow poo. Yep I got that right.

You cannot buy it anywhere else in the world – just where we are sleeping tonight. As I said, it is not a money-making venture – it is to make tourists stay ‘one more hour’.

Emma also gave us an insight into the cattle history of the station – one that has had many political ‘re-directions’. Her opinion of politicians is not language that can be included in this blog. And they are probably justified.

Emma is a great advocate for the 'Outback'. She also explained the system of 'water trapping' cattle - a non invasive way of getting cattle into the yards without any stress or great effort.

The 'one way gate' below illustrates how a cow or bull can enter a
yard but cannot get back out the same way.

Click here to see and hear the fascinating story of Curtin Springs Station, including paper making.

Day 12 - Tuesday 7 June 2022 - Curtin Springs Station to Uluru

It was another bitterly cold night - again made worse by little or no overnight heating. However we survived and quickly made our way to Ayers Rock Campground. It was a trip of around 85 km and we passed around 62 caravans/campers going the other way. There were maybe an additional 30 to 40 motor homes and tourist vehicles going the same direction. We seemed to be heading for a popular spot.

We were on our site at Ayers Rock Campground before 11am. We purchased 3-day national park passes online and loaded the passes onto my phone.

After a coffee we investigated an indigenous art gallery, a coffee shop (steak & mushroom pie for $10.50), a tshirt shop, and the IGA.

Then we headed out to Uluru for our first good look for 29 years. It is impressive.

We visited the cultural centre and found out where all the walks are, and started with the Kuniya walk. According to the Dreamtime stories Kuniya was a very impressive lady.

We visited Mutitjulu Waterhole and saw some indigenous art and some water (thanks to recent rain). The sun was in the wrong position for great photos.

Shirley wanted to take this seat home,

but the roof rack was inadequate for the task.

Below: Mutitjulu Waterhole & Two Little Guys who had a fracas

We headed back to camp and had happy hour and BBQ dinner with David & Wendy - who are heading to Alice Springs tomorrow.

Day 13 - Wednesday 8 June 2022 - Uluru

The chilly night and start to the day encouraged a slow start. So a good hot shower and a cooked breakfast were in order. Then blog updates. After that we did some planning on places to stay for the next two weeks.

Then we headed out to Uluru, with lunch. After circumnavigating the rock and getting some photos we did a 4 km walk around the base. Along the way we read about some Dreamtime stories.

Above: The line down the middle of the rock shows where
the guard cable used to be for people climbing Uluru

Below: Another View of Uluru

We found a good spot for lunch on the south eastern side of Uluru and I was able to get a photo of both Uluru and Kata Tjuta (The Olgas).

Below: Another View of Uluru

Uluru has some fascinating features up close, and we saw plenty of them today, including indigenous art and water cascading down the side of the rock.

After lunch we did the Mala Walk into Kantju Gorge, and read about more Dreamtime stories.

On the way home we visited the Camel Farm and chose against having a ride.

Around 5pm we joined many other tourists to watch the sun set on Uluru. The above photo was 30 minutes before sunset, the one below a few minutes after.

Day 14 - Thursday 9 June 2022 - Kata Tjuta (The Olgas)

It was a slow start, because we could, with some washing of clothes high on the agenda.

By the time we got our act together it was coffee time. So we had a coffee and departed for Kata Tjuta. Our day was just as impressive as Uluru was yesterday, only rockier and tougher walking.

Above: The View as we approached Kata Tjuta from the east

Below: The view from the west

We started with the "Valley of the Winds" walk, and walked nearly 4km - and wished that we had not. However the views were worth it.

Next was lunch................

Below: The view from the west as we had lunch (Our car on view)
Above: Very small guests who provided lunch entertainment

After lunch we did the "Waipa Gorge Walk". Another impressive struggle. The shaded and sunny aspects made it hard for good photos.

Above: Proof that I either have two wives, or that there was water at Kata Tjuta.

Below: One view looking east and one looking west.

We were very happy to get into the car after around 7 to 8 km of very rocky walks. The clothes were dry by the time we got home but coffee was a higher priority - much higher.

I filled up on diesel for $2.72 per litre, and was happy to get a 5 cent discount, just for Carlton supporters. Shirley conjured up some rissoles and I found a bottle of red.

Tomorrow we depart this part of the world and head to the "Alice".

Day 15 – Friday 10 June – Off Towards “The Alice”

It was a transit day, moving from Yalara to just short of Alice Springs.

We left Uluru and Kata Tjuta knowing that we had visited two of Australia’s wonderful rock formations. The one that just beats them (in our minds) is Purnululu (Bungle Bungles) in Western Australia.

So we headed west to the Stuart Highway, around 250 km away. We estimated that we passed around 80 to 100 caravans/campers heading towards the ‘rocks’. Maybe half that number again in 4WD vehicles with their accommodation and bedding on the car roof or in the back. There was very little other traffic.

We turned left at Erldunda and headed north up the Stuart Highway. The scenery was ‘more of the same’.

Around an hour later the road started to weave around and through rocky formations. It was very picturesque and enjoyable driving – with a tail wind. I could not stop to get a photo and my assistant is not flash with the camera (pardon the pun).

We stopped at a place called Stuarts Well, hoping for a powered campsite. It was an interesting place, to say the least.

We were out of luck and so we moved on, but not before I took photos of two amusing signs.

We stopped and took a photo of the memorial to the two officials and two competitors who died on the inaugural Cannonball Run in May 1994. It was my 400^th photo of the trip.

Around 60 km south of Alice Springs we found a free camp beside the road – and rested for the night. I soon found a WiFi Hotspot on a post in the wayside stop. It allowed phone calls and internet access in an area not known for its mobile coverage. We chatted to some of our neighbours.

Shirley conjured up curried sausages and rice for dinner. While she was doing that the sun set and slowly conjured up the following image.

Day 16 – Saturday 11 June – Alice Springs

The temperature of 3 degrees did not stop me from getting the following two sunrise photos, the first around 15 minutes before sunrise, and the second as the sun poked its head over the horizon. Both photos were taken within a few metres of each other and in the same direction.

We arrived in Alice Springs around 9am and did some retail therapy. Bunnings, Target, KMart, Mad Harry's & Repco were visited - not to mention the tourist information office. After lunch we added Coles, Liquorland and Supercheap Auto. Apart from Coles we did not spend much. There was a coffee in there somewhere.

We admired some the street art that was commonplace around the town, as we headed out to the Showgrounds to check in.

Check-in was duly completed and camp was established, prior to lunch.

Alice Springs (and the showgrounds) are very busy at the moment, thanks to the Finke Desert race, which starts today.

After lunch we visited the "Adelaide House Museum", an architecturally innovative building that served as central Australia's first medical facility (for 13 years). The building has a close association with Rev John Flynn - who is very famous in this part of the world.

Shirley had ambitions of buying another car, but I talked her out of it.

While John Flynn was fresh in our minds we drove just out of town to visit his burial place and monument. His place of rest is overlooking a beautiful landscape that is a feature of where he did most of his great work.

John Flynn monument with part of the West MacDonnell ranges in the background

The rock that (originally) sat as a key feature of the monument came from the rock formation known as "Devils Marbles". However the local indigenous people were unhappy with a 'marble' being taken from their sacred site, so another rock had to be found so that the original rock could be returned to its rightful home.

This took some time as the indigenous people had to approve the selection of the replacement rock. After we leave the Alice we hope to see the original rock at the Devils Marbles.

We then finished the shopping mentioned above, and returned to camp.

The nature of the weather kept us inside for the rest of the day.

I am hoping that Shirley has some chocolate tucked away somewhere.

Day 17 – Sunday 12 June – Alice Springs

A cloudy night and a few drops of rain meant that the night was our warmest yet - just down to 8 degrees.

Our first activity of the day (after leaving the caravan) was to visit the airport and check out the many many aeroplanes that are stored out there - gathering (red) dust. There are many more than shown in the photo.

Shirley then directed us to the Old Telegraph station, and a revisit of Australian history to do with the arrival of telegraph communication. It was an amazing physical feat, to establish a 3000 km telegraph line, that was made worse by Australian politics of a number of states who were yet to join as one entity.

The buildings comprise the first (white) settlement in Alice Springs. The settlement itself has a long and an amazing history. The first station-master died of thirst on his way to his new job. Many children of mixed-race lived there.

The settlement was built beside the spring (that was not really a spring) that gave Alice Springs its name. It is more of a semi-permanent pond in the creek, than a spring.

After over-dosing on historical facts and figures we had a coffee.

Navigator Shirley then decided to revisit "Simpson's Gap" so 20 km west we headed. It is a scenic place to visit.

Last time we were here you could walk through the gap. Now you would get very wet, thanks to recent rains.

Despite the antics of an irresponsible tourist with a mobile phone camera, we were able to get a good look at a rock wallaby. Ironically the wallaby came out for a good view after the over-eager tourist departed.

She upset a couple of German tourists who were trying to get their first look at a rock wallaby when she scared it off. However the German tourists got the last laugh and were happy when we called them back - and they got their photos.

Not yet content Shirley had us visit the Araluen Cultural Precinct, that comprises an Art Gallery (with 3 Albert Namatjira paintings), a sculpture garden (see photo), the Museum of Central Australia, and lots more. The museum features (what must be) every bird, mammal, reptile and insect that has or does live in central Australia. We saw scorpions, snakes, birds, and a zillion others.

It has pieces of meteorites, and every conceivable rock that one could imagine.

Then we walked through a large volume of historic photos.